|
Home
> Personal
Stories > Luci Cohen-Zimering
Blue and White Tunisia
By Luci Cohen-Zimering
La Ghriba Synagogue, Djerba Tunisia
My memories from Tunisia are bittersweet.
There are so many happy years, then the war, the German invasion, the
liberation - the exile. I was born in Tunis, to a family who lived there for
many generations. They came from Spain
via Algeria—we
did not speak Spanish but my grandparents spoke Arabic and the children
knew French. Our life revolved around our family and my parents, my two
brothers, and I lived with my paternal grand-parents in the capital, Tunis. We lived in
a neighborhood with mostly Jews, many Italians, and a few French. All my
aunts, uncles and cousins were always with us. It was a great feeling to
be all together most of the time, everyone considered me the
"official babysitter" for all the babies and I loved it.
The best times were the holidays. We all learned
cooking from my grandmother who was always considered the best cook in
the family. For Pesach, we all gathered around a great table covered in
white tablecloth and adorned with crystals so thin that once one broke
just by tilting on the table. One of my uncles had the task to
"grade" the main dish; whether it was couscous, pekella, kamounia, Pesach msoki, or all the kemia
(different salads). The funniest thing that the children liked to do was
to pull (unnoticed) the tablecloth and spill the red wine. It was easy
with small Pesach silver goblets. Our parents were forbidden by Grandpere Maurice to scold us during the holidays, so
we took advantage. When I feared the wrath of my parents, I would hide
behind Meme Noucha's skirts where no one could
get me.
Then there were the summers. Every year after school
my grand-ather rented a big house by the sea
(La Marsa). Imagine all the cousins enjoying
the vacation—the beach, food, and friendship. I remember that we played
"school" pretending to be teachers and students. It was a way
to keep us all quiet. Every summer we found ourselves in a different
location. Once we stayed near Carthage
which gave us the opportunity to visit the Punic ruins, the coliseum, and
some of the most beautiful Roman ruins in the world. As teenagers, me and my cousins spent our days on the beach, walking
back and forth at the edge of the water, and then joining the summer
crowd which consisted mostly of Jewish, Italian and French young people.
It seemed that the Moslem population kept to themselves in the Medina, a neighborhood
that we did not visit. But we shopped in the Souks,
those narrow streets full of colorful merchandise, delicious smelling
food, animals, and people. Of course no one bought hand made
carpets, copper or silver items, without bargaining forever—pretending to
walk away and then being called back to finally get the object. I have
beautiful necklaces and earrings that look like lace made of small hands.
The "hand of Fathma" keeps us safe
from the evil eye and so do the fish.
The Moslem population did not bother us and we were on
friendly terms with everyone. They were, in their own country, the silent
majority. Jews were respected and were highly ranked professionally. In fact the Bey's
private doctor was Jewish. However, one evening all the neighbors looked
scared and we had to hide in the basement of our building. The Germans
had invaded Tunis.
I asked my mother if there would be nursery school the day after. I think
that we stayed home for a while. My bachelor uncles were sent to hard
labor camps while a few young men preferred to hide in the countryside. As
a result of the food shortage at that time, hunger sent us to bed with
stomachs half full. My father along with a few of his friends would rent
a truck, drive to Algeria
and come back the same day with lots of bags of potatoes.
I know now that the German army was planning to build
concentration camps and the only thing that saved us was the lack of
railroads to transport masses of people to them. I remember the bombs falling
very close to our house, but thankfully nothing of ours was damaged. We
were required to give our radios and other items to the Germans. The English,
followed by the Americans liberated Tunis
and the rest of North Africa in. When
President Habib Bourguiba
returned from exile in France,
it was a day of celebration. With a few of my close friends I joined the
crowd to welcome him. As a result, our French boss fired us. After having
to find a new job, I was offered a secretary position by the Minister of
Communications to Habib Bourguiba,
Mr. Bechir Ben Yahmed.
He insisted on teaching me the use of all the machines and I was responsible
for keeping in touch, via Telex, with our employer when he was out of the
country. I was treated like a princess. The business included selling
FIAT cars and all the employees received a great discount. I was able to
buy one car on my salary and my cousin did the same. I think that I was
one of the only young girls in Tunis
to have her own car.
Talk about ending the French Protectorate produced a
great deal of tension and confrontation. This talk led to a few members
of my family immigrating to France
and Israel.
When they left, they could only take the equivalent of 20 dollars and one
suitcase. In 1962, I decided to join my brothers who were students in Geneva, Switzerland. Arriving there without
money made it very hard but my brother's friends helped me until I found
a job. I experienced a great deal of culture shock! In Geneva, I met my future husband who was a PH.D. student
at the time. In 1968 he got a position in the US
and we moved to Ohio.
My husband died in 1995 so I followed my younger son to Palo Alto, California.
My older son and his wife live on the east cost.
I believe that some of us who left our country of
origin miss the quiet and pleasant life that we once had. Since we lived
in European colonies and had good relations with them, we lived in nice
buildings with all the commodities for a very comfortable life. If our
maid, babysitter, and cook were Moslem, we got along perfectly well with
them and liked them a lot. During the High Holidays we attended the
splendid synagogue in Tunis
with the crowd spilling outside on the streets, without any fear. Our
friends were all Jewish and the Italian and French attended private French
schools with French teachers. I do not remember seeing Tunisian born
students in my school which left them without education since public
schools did not exist until much later.
1967 was a very hard year. Jews were attacked in the
streets, and the synagogue was burned. My mother's building was set on
fire and the "haj" (concierge) saved
her life. She then decided to flee to France, leaving her building
and all of her belongings behind.
In 2000 my son
wanted to visit the country where I was born. He liked it a lot, but for
me it was very sad to return and I really didn’t want to go knowing that I would be disappointed. Everything
had changed - the beaches were crowded, a trolley was build in the middle
of the main avenue and the streets felt like total chaos. The taxi driver could not even find the
street where we lived because the names were different. The Great
Synagogue was heavily guarded by soldiers for safety; however we enjoyed
our trip and bought many souvenirs.
In the south, specifically on the island of Djerba, the scene remained
as beautiful as it always was - untouched by the changes sweeping the
rest of the country.
When I
compare our life with the life of Jews in other Arab countries, ours
seems wonderful, peaceful, and friendly. We try to keep contact with
other Tunisians through a Tunisian website, "Harissa.com". We
would like to save our heritage, Judeo-Arab language, and memories.
|